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Wisconsin's
Best Breweries and Brewpubs
Searching
for the Perfect Pint
Robin Shepard
Here is a sample review of a brewpub
from Robin's book.
ABOUT THE BREWPUB
J. T. Whitney's, on Madison's west
side, appeals to people looking for a quiet
business lunch or a break from the nearby shopping malls. It
not only attracts these patrons but also provides a warm and
inviting neighborhood feeling that encourages you to stop by
to catch a Sunday afternoon football game or shoot pool with
a friend. Whitney's is the kind of place that you want to keep
coming back to on a regular basis—even if you don't live
on Madison's west side. It just feels like your neighborhood
Wisconsin tavern.
The interior has an open plan, but tall booths provide privacy.
The brew-pub
features a private party room, while the main barroom has a stage,
and
when the mood arises a few tables are moved to expand the dance
floor.
Whitney's hosts live music, which has included Thursday evenings
of swing
music, complete with dance instructors. The bar is large and
square and
serves patrons on three sides. With a mug club of more than five
hundred
members, you find most mugs hanging above the bar several rows
deep. The brewing room is located behind big windows, and you
almost always see the brewmaster working on his next batch.
J. T. Whitney's has one of the most active beer lists of any
Wisconsin
brewpub. It is common to find six to eight house beers on tap,
plus root beer
and cream soda. The regular lineup of beer will include at a
minimum the
Goldenshine, Badger Red Ale, and Black Diamond Porter.
DON'T MISS THIS
J. T. Whitney's prominently displays a number of its medals
from beer festivals on the north wall of the restaurant. There
are also framed articles about the pub. One of the more entertaining
displays features the work of artist Dennis Schmidt. In the hallway
leading to the rest rooms you'll find a number of his caricatures
of bar patrons. Who knows, if you spend enough time out here,
you might find your own mug shot on the wall.
HISTORY
Various restaurants and bars have occupied the building that
houses J. T.
Whitney's. Named after the major street in front of the brewpub,
J. T. Whitney's was established in 1995. Brewmaster Richard Becker
helped establish the brewing operation in 1996. Becker's family
has a rich history in brewing. Many generations ago, in 1590,
his ancestors opened the Mahrs Brau brewery in Bamberg, Germany,
and it remains in the family. Today his uncle owns it. Becker's
craft usually keeps six to eight beers on tap, but over a year
he'll tackle American, British, and German ales that add variety
to the list. Becker takes great pride in traditional German wheat
beers. His Heartland Weisse won a silver medal at the 1997 World
Beer Championships. Owner David Bookstaff is a fixture at the
pub. You can expect to see him pitching in behind the bar or
even busing tables. For me it's a mark of a great brewpub for
the owner to come over to the table and even sit down for a few
minutes to chat! Some folks might be a little intimidated by
this, but I really like the friendly touch and attention to customers'
needs. Bookstaff grew up around beer enthusiasts in Milwaukee,
where he gained an early appreciation for good beer. He's also
one of the more knowledgeable beer history buffs and industry
insiders you'll meet.
J.T.WHITNEY'S BREWS
Badger Red Ale Your Ranking ________
J. T. Whitney's signature beer. A light hoppy aroma with
a reddish bronze color. Medium bodied and very smooth. The pleasant balance of
the malt and hops is slightly favored toward a mild caramel background.
The hoppiness is not bitter, but it does offer punchy accent.
Winner of a bronze medal two years in a row (1999 and 2000) at
the Great American Beer Festival and a silver medal at the 1997
World Beer Championships.
Berliner Honey Weiss Your Ranking ________
A very light, faint, fruity nose. Clear copper color
with a thick, soft, white head.
Light bodied and very bubbly texture. Strong fruity flavor, with
a light sour finish. The fruity acidic tones really stand out.
Bitter Days Your Ranking ________
Very brownish body, with a light, bubbly, off-white head.
Sharp and crisp texture. The hoppiness is very distinctive. Starts
with a slightly malty flavor, then a clean separation to the
bitter hoppiness. A silver medal winner at the 1998 World Beer
Championships.
Black Diamond Porter Your Ranking ________
A personal favorite. The Black Diamond is a perfect porter
for any time or
occasion, but it is especially nice on a snowy Wisconsin afternoon.
A dark
color, with a bubbly, tan head. A medium body and creamy texture.
Hints of
coffee and chocolate carefully complement the rich malt body.
A silver medal
winner at the 1997 World Beer Championships.
Frozen Tundra
Championship Ale Your Ranking ________
Very light flowery nose. A golden, almost bronze color.
Medium bodied with a
firm hoppiness and crispness.
Goldenshine Your Ranking ________
J. T. Whitney's lightest ale. A light golden-yellow body.
A very light, bubbly,
white head. Very little nose, with a thin texture. This is as
light as the pub's
description indicates. A bronze medal winner at the 1997 World
Beer Champi-onships.
Heartland Weisse Your Ranking ________
This Weisse beer is a cloudy yellow with a soft, white
head. Its nose is very citrus and fruity. A medium-bodied beer
that maintains a fresh crispness. This may not be unique, but
just well done and with solid Weisse character. A great introduction
to the wheat beer style. A silver medal winner at the 1997 World
Beer Championships.
(We can't tell you everything about all the beers on this brewpub,
or the many other fine brewpubs, but we will try to add more
brewpub samples as we can. Check out this space for updates and
changes.)
PUB FARE
J. T. Whitney's offers standard
pub fare along with a few traditional pub
favorites, such as Scotch eggs-hard-cooked egg coated with pork
sausage,
breaded, deep fried, then served with J. T. Badger Red Ale Mustard.
The
menu stresses soups, salads, and sandwiches. About a dozen different
sandwiches make choosing difficult. The standard cheeseburger
is a half-pound burger topped with four different cheeses. The
prime rib sandwich is open faced and topped with fried onions
and mozzarella cheese. Whitney's has homemade vegetarian pizzas-the
artichoke heart and the Triple Delight stress Wisconsin cheeses.
A favorite dinner entree is Raspberry Ribs, glazed with a combination
of
whole raspberries and smoky barbecue sauce. The grilled tuna
steak and the walleye fillets also won't disappoint you. When
choosing a side dish for your entree, consider Ugly Potatoes—stewed,
smashed baby reds mixed with onions, cheese, and butter. The
daily lunch specials are truly special, and while they do change
from time to time, historically Wednesday is meat loaf day and
Friday brings the all-you-can-eat fish fry. Both dishes are two
of the best in Madison.
OTHER THINGS TO SEE AND DO
J. T. Whitney's is near several shopping areas, a golf course,
and a driving
range and miniature golf park. It is located one block north
of the Beltline
(Highways 12 and 14), at the northwest corner of Odana Road and
Whitney
Way in the Whitney Square Shopping Center. A Madison Metro bus
stop and
transfer point is nearby.
Media & bookseller inquiries regarding review copies, events, and interviews can be directed to the publicity department at publicity@wwwtest.uwpress.wisc.edu or (608) 263-0734. (If you want to examine a book for possible course use, please see our Course Books page. If you want to examine a book for possible rights licensing, please see Rights & Permissions.)
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September
2001
328 pp. 6 x 9
66 illus., 1 map
ISBN 0-299-17444-1
Paper $24.95 t
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